Miho Nonaka
Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1997-05-21) May 21, 1997
Tokyo, Japan
OccupationProfessional climber
Height163 cm (5 ft 4 in)
Weight53 kg (117 lb)
Websitehttps://mihounonaka.com/
Climbing career
Type of climberCompetition bouldering
Highest grade
Known forWinner of Bouldering World Cup in 2018
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Japan
Olympic Games
Silver medal – second place2020 TokyoCombined
World Championships
Silver medal – second place2016 ParisBouldering
World Cup
Third place2015Bouldering
Second place2016Bouldering
First place2018Bouldering
Second place2022Bouldering
Second place2023Bouldering
Asian Championships
Gold medal – first place2015Bouldering
Updated on July 8, 2021.

Miho Nonaka (野中 生萌, Nonaka Mihō, born May 21, 1997) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering.[1][2] She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.[3]

Life

Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first World Cup at age 17. She is one of the most successful young climbers on the Bouldering World Cup circuit and started competing in speed and lead[4] in preparation for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, where climbers were to compete in all disciplines.[5][6][7] In 2018, she won the Bouldering World Cup by earning one gold medal and six silver medals in the seven events of that season.[8]

Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015

In 2019, she won three Climbing Japan Cup competitions: Bouldering Japan Cup, Speed Japan Cup, and Combined Japan Cup.

In December 2020, Nonaka's qualification for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics was confirmed after a dispute between the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.[9][10][11] In 2022 she won bronze medal at the World Cup in Innsbruck.[12]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[13]

Discipline 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022
Lead 42 55 - - 46 23 19 26
Bouldering - 5 3 2 4 1 15 2
Speed - - - - - 43 30
Combined 5 - - 8 3 4

Climbing World Championships

Youth[2]

Discipline 2015
Juniors
2016
Juniors
Bouldering 2 4

Adult[2]

Discipline 2014 2016 2018 2019 2023
Lead - - 16 26 8
Bouldering 15 2 5 5 24
Speed - - 25 25 -
Combined - - 5 5 7

World Cup podiums

Bouldering[2]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201411
201511
2016235
2017145
2018167
202111
2022123
202311
Total4101024

Speed[2]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
202111
Total11

Notable Ascents

On September 15, 2021, Nonaka redpointed Mr. Hyde 8c+ (5.14c) in Céüse, France.[14]

References

  1. "Miho Nonaka". Redbull. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 IFSC, ed. (May 30, 2022). "Nonaka's profile and rankings". Retrieved May 30, 2022.
  3. "Sport Climbing NONAKA Miho". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 2021-08-04. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  4. Nagatsuka, Kaz (July 5, 2018). "Going up not only challenge for competitors in climbing" via Japan Times Online.
  5. "Miho Nonaka: Off the Wall". her. magazine. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  6. "The Rise of Miho Nonaka". Crux Crush. Archived from the original on 22 May 2019. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  7. "野中生萌公式サイト | mihounonaka.com". 野中生萌公式サイト | mihounonaka.com.
  8. "Miho Nonaka and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup 2018". PlanetMountain.com.
  9. "CAS rejects appeal against sport climbing qualification process for Tokyo 2020". www.insidethegames.biz. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  10. "Japanese Climbing Federation Loses Lawsuit Against IFSC". www.gymclimber.com. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 25 September 2022.
  11. Court of Arbitration for Sport (10 December 2020). "Arbitral Award for cases CAS 2019/A/6557 and CAS 2019/A/6663, JMSCA v. IFSC" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 10 October 2022.
  12. "American Natalia Grossman wins boulder title at IFSC World Cup 2022 in Innsbruck". Olympics.com. International Olympic Committee. 2022-06-25. Retrieved 2022-06-26.
  13. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  14. "Miho Nonaka climbs Mr Hyde 8c+ at Céüse". September 16, 2021. Retrieved July 13, 2023.
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