Johanna Ernst
Johanna Ernst in Imst, 2009
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1992-11-16) 16 November 1992
Mittersill, Austria
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height158 cm (5 ft 2 in)
Weight48 kg (106 lb)
Websitewww.johanna-ernst.at
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinning the World Cup twice, and the World Championships once.
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2009 XiningLead
Bronze medal – third place2012 ParisLead
World Cup
Winner2008Lead
Winner2009Lead
Second place2008Combined
Third place2009Combined
Third place2012Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2008Lead
Silver medal – second place2010Lead
Updated on 3 November 2017.

Johanna Ernst (born 16 November 1992) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialised in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering, but also does outdoor sport climbing.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Ernst began climbing when she was 8 years old. Initially, she only competed in the competition lead climbing discipline. In 2008, when she was 16, she participated in her first Lead Climbing World Cup and won it, earning three gold, two silver and one bronze medals.[1] In the same year she also won the Rock Master climbing festival[2] and the Lead Climbing European Championship in Paris.

In 2009, she won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai[3] and, for the second time in a row, the Lead Climbing World Cup.[4] As a decoration of honor for these outstanding achievements, in 2009 she was also awarded the Gold Medal for Services to the Republic of Austria.[5]

In 2010, she could not compete in the Lead Climbing World Cup due to an ankle sprain caused by a fall during the Bouldering World Cup on June 4 in Vail. However, in September she was able to earn the silver medal at the European Championships in Imst.[6]

Rock climbing

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[7]

Discipline 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 1 1 - 6 3
Bouldering 30 22 28 - -
Speed - - - - -
Combined 2 3 - - -

Climbing World Championships[8]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012
Lead 1 4 3

Climbing European Championships[8]

Discipline 2008 2010 2013
Lead 1 2 19

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
20083216
2009314
201122
20121214
Total94316

Rock climbing

Johanna competing at the 2010 World Cup event in Wien.

Redpointed routes

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

  • La Fabelita - Santa Linya (ESP) - 5 April 2012[9]

8b+b :

  • Minas Tirith - Ötztal (AUT) - 7 August 2008

Onsighted routes

8b (5.13d):

  • Santa Linya - Santa Linya (ESP) - 3 April 2009[10]

8a+ (5.13c):

  • La Mare del Tano - Santa Linya (ESP) - 3 April 2009
  • Flix Flax - Terradets (ESP) - 1 April 2009
  • White Winds - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - 30 March 2008[11]

References

  1. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 17, 2008). "Coppa del mondo arrampicata Lead a Johanna Ernst e Jorg Verhoeven".
  2. Vinicio Stefanello (September 7, 2008). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Patxi Usobiaga e Johanna Ernst vincono il Rock Master 2008".
  3. Vinicio Stefanello (July 7, 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del mondo di arrampicata - Qinghai (CHN)".
  4. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Lead 2009 a Johanna Ernst e Adam Ondra".
  5. johanna-ernst.at (ed.). "Goldene Ehrenzeichen".
  6. Vinicio Stefanello (September 20, 2010). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati Europei di arrampicata, i risultati".
  7. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  8. 1 2 IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Ernst's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  9. 1 2 planetmountain.com, ed. (April 12, 2012). "Johanna Ernst da 8c+ a Santa Linya, Spagna".
  10. desnivel.com, ed. (June 12, 2009). "Johanna Ernst, 8b a vista en Santa Linya".
  11. planetmountain.com, ed. (April 16, 2008). "Arrampicata nello Schleierwasserfall, Austria".
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