< Life with the Esquimaux
LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX:
THE NARRATIVE
OF
CAPTAIN CHARLES FRANCIS HALL,
OF THE WHALING BARQUE "GEORGE HENRY,"
FROM THE 29th MAY, 1860, TO THE 13th SEPTEMBER, 1862.
WITH THE
RESULTS OF A LONG INTERCOURSE WITH THE INNUITS, AND FULL
DESCRIPTION OF THEIR MODE OF LIFE,
THE DISCOVERY OF
ACTUAL RELICS OF THE EXPEDITION OF MARTIN FROBISHER OF
THREE CENTURIES AGO, AND DEDUCTIONS IN FAVOUR OF YET DISCOVERING
SOME OF THE SURVIVORS OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION.
With Maps and One Hundred Illustrations.
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL II.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON,
14, LUDGATE HILL
1864.
CONTENTS.
Journey to the Unknown, or "Dreaded Land"—Sylvia Island—Lupton Channel—Jones's Tower—A Butterfly—Cape Daly—Hummocky Ice—Ancient Piles of Stones—Discover a new Channel—Dr. Kane's Channel—Immense number of Seals—Extensive View—Davis's Straits—Resolution Island, and high Land to the North—Sudden appearance of a Steam-ship—Mount Warwick—Return Journey—Mode of making Traces and Walrus Lines—Note-book Lost—Its Recovery—Ancient Dwellings of Innuits—Rapid Journey back to the Ship—Dangerous Travelling—Ice breaking up—Safe Arrival on Board—Means of sustaining Life in these RegionsPage 1
An Excursion to the Whaling Dépôt—Passage across Field Bay—Singular Mode of capturing Seals—Chapell Inlet—Cross to Frobisher Bay—Great number of Pieces of Limestone—Boat Trip to Bear Sound—Velocity of the Tides—Immense number of Ducks and Wildfowl—Eggs obtained in abundance—Return to Rescue Harbour—Stop at French Head—Corpse of John Brown still there, and unmolested—Arrive on Board—Musquitoes—Ugarng's Influence and Character—A Love Affair—Little Ookoodlear and the Outcast E-tu—An unnatural Father—A Child left deserted on a solitary Island—Procures Food by catching Partridges with his Hand—lives a Hermit Life for Months—Is rescued by chance Visitors—Ugarng's generous Protection23
The "George Henry" free from her icy Prison—Dog "Smile" capturing a Seal—Fresh Fish caught—A Walrus-attack on the boat—Islands in Frobisher Bay—Innuit Diseases—Consumption—Return trip through Lupton Channel—All the Ice disappeared—Great Heat—Travelling over broken Ice—Dangerous Leaps—The "Rescue's" Ghost—Superstition of Sailors—Ice-floes pressing on the Ship—Mate Rogers—Incidents of his Trip up the Bay—Author's Plans for exploring—Leaves the Ship—Takes up his abode with the Natives—The "George Henry" departs—Author's Visit to the "Rescue's" Hull—Arctic Robins—Unexpected Return of the Ship—Opening for Missionary Enterprise—Pemmican, best Mode of preparing it—Nice Distinction as to what is Work—The Fashions—Suzhi the heaviest Innuit41
Departure on Boat-voyage to explore Frobisher Bay—An Innuit Crew—Author the only White Man—Innuit Mode of drowning Ducks—Joyousness of the Crew—A Bear-hunt in the Water—Author's narrow Escape—Land on Oopungnewing—Visit Niountelik—Explore the Island—Important Discovery—"Sea-coal!"—Proof of Frobisher's Expedition having visited here—Joy of the Author—Corroborative Testimony of Innuits from Tradition—Return to Oopungnewing—Great Feast on the Bear—Innuit Customs—Bear's Bladder and Charms—Polar Bear's Liver poisonous64
Chewing old Boots—Formation of Icebergs—Innuits good Anatomists—Koojesse draughting the Coast—Sarah G.'s Cape—Iron Island— Arrive at Jones's Cape—A Settlement of Innuits—Native Monument—Dental Mill for trying out Oil—Arrive at Ming-u-toon—Great Rise and Fall of Tides—Bones of the Whale and other Animals—A Grave—Laborious and difficult Work—Arrive at Waddel Bay—Meeting with old Artarkparu—A persevering and industrious Cripple—Proceed toward his Village—Annawa and other Natives there—Women busily engaged in sewing Skins—A Good Feast—More information about Frobisher's Expedition—Ascend a Mountain—Remarkable Features about it—Large Caverns—The Aurora—Curious Phenomena82
Encampment on Rae's Point—A Seal Feast—Reindeer Moss abundant—More traditional History—A Two-mile Walk over Rocks—Jack the Angeko—The two Boats and two Kias—Picturesque appearance of the Women Rowers-The Flag of the Free—Icebergs on the Rocks—Visit the Island Frobisher's Farthest—The Great Gateway—President's Seat—Beautiful and warm Day—Abundance of Game—Seals and Reindeer in abundance—The Roar of a Cataract—Waters alive with Salmon—Discover the Termination of Frobisher Bay—Enter an Estuary—A Leming—Tweroong sketchs Kingaite Coast—Reindeer Skins for Clothing—Luxuriant Fields—Reindeer Tallow good—Innuit Monument—Ancient Dwellings—Sylvia Grinnell River—A Pack of Wolves—Glories of the calm clear Night—Aurora again—A Land abounding with Reindeer—Blueberries—Method of taking Salmon—Bow and Arrows99
Peale Point— Bishap's Island—Land on Kingaite—A new Country—Night at the Camp—Sunlight on the Mountains—Talk with sick Tweroong—The Bible—Innuit Ideas of Heaven and Hell—Foggy Day—Aggoun—Not a Tuktoo, but a Goose—Vexatious Delays—A Day of Trials and Discoveries—Arrive at West side Head of Frobisher Bay—Jordan's River—Hazard's Banks—Explore the New Land—Beautiful Cascade—Brent Geese—Silliman's Fossil Mount—Romantic Pass, the Great Gateway—A White Whale—An Innuit's ill Humour—His savage Attack on his Wife—Another Walk to the Falls—Start on Excursion to the Great Gateway—Arctic Owl—Fossils—Author sick-Kind Attention of Tweroong—Dish of Salmon—Laughable Incident—Koomuk and Pepper—Visit to Silliman's Fossil Mount115
Departure from Greenwood's Land—Numerotis Rocks—Furious Tides—Narrow Escape—Preservation Island—Beginning of Winter—Ice Forming—Visit the principal Islands at Head of the Bay—Koojesse a skilful Boatman—Nearly wrecked—Saved by the Rising Tide—Departure Homeward—The Kingaite Coast—Boisterous Weather—Detained on a Rugged Island—Difficulties with the Innuit Crew—Freedom and Independence—Land133
Land on an Island—Innuit Insolence—Leave Kingaite Coast for the North Side of the Bay of Frobisher—Extraordinary Scenes—Singular Customs—Drinking Deer's Blood—More Ankooting—Mystical Songs—"Fool's Gold"—Parting with old Too-loo-ka-ah—Arrival at Niountelik—Proceed to Kodlunarn, or "White Man's" Island—Important Discoveries—Ship's Trench—Ruins of Stone Houses—Coal and Tile—Return to Niountelik and Encamp—Cruise in "Countess of Warwick's Sound"—Arrive at Tikkoon—Discovery of a heavy Piece of Iron—Passage across the Sound—Proceed up Victoria Bay—Precipitous Mountains—Ekkelezhun—A fine and secure Harbour—Discovery of several Tons of Coal and Flint-stones—Return to Niountelik143
A Storm—Detained at Niountelik—Examine the Island—Another Deposit of Coal found—Specimens collected—Revisit Kodlunarn—Minute Inspection—More Relics found of Frobisher's Expedition—A large Piece of Iron—The "Ship's Trench"—Depart on return to Ship—Revisit the Whaling Dépôt—Last Encampment by Lupton Channel—Innuit Deposits of Food—Good Faith and Honesty of the Natives toward each other—Avoidance of the "Dreaded Land"— Last Day's Journey—Arrive near Parker's Bay—Anxiety and Excitement as to the Ship—Gain Sight of her—Arrival on Board—All well!159}}
Visit the Friendly Natives—Ebierbing and Tookoolito—A Surprise—Birth of a Son—Artarkparu's Information—More concerning Frobisher's Expedition—A great Number of Innuits around the Ship—They all concur in the Traditionary History given to me—Author's Anxiety to renew his Discoveries—Another Boat-trip—Cross the Bay to Chapell Inlet—Camp for the Night—Continue the Voyage—Encamp once more—Visit an Innuit Dépôt of Food—A severe Hurricane—Boat-voyage abandoned—Return to the Ship—Capture of two Whales—A Man dangerously hurt by a Whale168
The Anvil—Preparations for returning Home—Excursion to Bayard Taylor Pass—Hard Climbing—An extensive View—The Ice Pack in Davis's Strait—A Rapid Descent—Return to the Ship—Startling Announcement of Captain B.—Another Winter in the Ice—General Gloom—A bitter Disappointment—How to live and keep Warm—Innuit Simplicity regarding Money—Author's Proposition concerning Stores178
Sick Mam-ma-yat-che-ung immured in a living Tomb!—The dying Woman lingers for Weeks, almost starving—The Aurora Borealis—A Magnificent Display—Strange Custom relating to New Mothers—Nukertou's Grave—A Talk with the Dead—Presents to the Departed—Life in the Winter—Theatricals on Board—Henry Smith, the "Negress"—Consternation of some of the Innuits on seeing a Black Face—Another Excursion—A Winter Sledge-journey—Old Mother Petato—Novel Mode of warming the Feet—Deer's Paunch considered delicious Food—Visit Tikkoon—Tradition of a Ship built and masted192
Movements of the Ship's Company—Scarcity of Provisions—A Man's Feet frozen stiff—Amputation necessary—Dreadful Story of a Woman deserted—Attempt to Rescue her—The Attempt a Failure—A perilous Situation—A second Effort—The Woman found Dead—Ebierbing at a Seal-hole—Innuit Perseverance—The Author's Plans213
Commencement of a Sledge-journey up Frobisher Bay—Parting with Tookoolito—Crossing the Pass—Arrival at Oopungnewing—Search for the "Anvil"—A Seal-feast—A Walrus Hunt—Spearing the Walrus—Building an Igloo—Innuit Puppies—Arrival at Brewster Point—A Young Seal—Unsuccessful Attempt to catch the Mother—Trip up Newton's Fiord—Out all Night—An extempore Igloo the Fourth Encampment—Dog Comforters—Caught in a Storm-Peril and Fatigue231
Continue the Journey up Frobisher Bay—Arrive at Beauty Bay—The Sledge attacked by hungry Dogs—Meeting with Friends—Bereavement of old Allokee and his Wife—Death of Tweroong—Heart-rending Particulars—A Seal-feast—A sudden Excitement—Strange Visit of an Angeko—Parting with Allokee—Visit to the Grinnell Glacier—Ascent by Polar Bear Tracks—A Sea of Ice—An exciting Journey back247
Innuit Food—Picture of a Dinner-party -Rabbit-charming—Proposed flying Trip—Freaks of Jennie—Her Foot-race after the Sledge—Feminine Coquetry—Sharkey's Despair—Change of Plans—Koojesse's Ugliness—Final Adjustment of Plan—Departure on flying Trip—An Upset—Wolves—Chase of a Bear and Cub—Capture of the latter—Night Travelling—Return to Place of Starting— Set out for the Ship—Arrive on Board259
Ebierbing and Tookoolito—They decide to Visit America—More Frobisher Relics—A Musket-ball—Old Ookijoxy Ninoo—Interesting Conversation—Her Sketch of the Monument—Innuit Superstition—The Lock of Hair—Sledge-journey alone—Another Trip with Ebierbing—Danger on the Ice—Remains of Innuit subterranean Houses—A critical Situation—Boat-excursion to Countess of Warwick's Sound—A large Travelling Company—Kodlunarn again—Fresh Discoveries—Another Voyage—Sharkey's Monument—Walrus Meat282
Revisit Victoria Bay—Packed Ice setting in the Sound—Detention and difficult Escape—Return to the Whaling Dépôt—Joyous News from the Ship—All Hands summoned on Board— Great Excitement—Adieu to Bear Sound, Lupton Channel, and French Head—Arrival on Board—The Ship free from Ice—Preparations for Sailing—August 9th, 1862, the "George Henry" lifts Anchor, and gets under way for Home—Friendly Adieux to the Natives—Once more at Sea—First Sign of Civilization for twenty Months—Newfoundland—Pilot comes on Board—First News of the War—Kindly Reception at St. John's—Arrival at New London—Conclusion301
The Innuit Name—Character of the People—Their domestic Life—Peculiar Customs concerning Women—Social and political Life—Theological Ideas—Belief in a God—The Angekos—Mingumailo and his two Wives—His Rage against Koojesse—Superstitious Customs of the Innuits—Customs connected with Hunting—Innuit Christmas and New Year—Innuit Language—Innuit Costume—Native Sagacity in studying Natural History—Anecdotes of the Seal—Of the Polar Bear—Conclusion311
APPENDIX.
| I. | The Present of the "Resolute" |
337 |
| II. | Sums paid on Account of the Arctic Research Expedition |
337 |
| III. | Danish Currency |
341 |
| IV. | Pim-ma-in, or Chiefs |
342 |
| V. | Frobisher's Gold |
342 |
| VI. | The Wreck of the "George Henry" |
342 |
| VII. | Bob's Measurement |
343 |
| VIII. | Frobisher's Expeditions |
343 |
| IX. | The Loss of the Bark "Kitty" |
348 |
| X. | Mineralogical and Geological Specimens |
349 |
| XI. | Arctic Sledge |
351 |
A LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS
IN VOL. II.
Drawn by Charles Parsons, W. S. L. Jewett, H. L. Stephens, Granville Perkins, and S. Eytinge, after Sketches by the Author, Photographs, and from Implements and Clothing collected among the Esquimaux.
Page
| 1. | View from the top of Sylvia Island |
4 |
| 2. | Encampment at the foot of Jones's Tower |
6 |
| 3. | North Foreland of Frobisher |
16 |
| 4. | Homeward Bound—Ice Breaking up |
21 |
| 5. | Innnit Strategy to Capture a Seal |
26 |
| 6. | Scaling an Ice Collar in Bear Sound |
33 |
| 7. | Dog Capturing a Seal |
42 |
| 8. | French Head |
46 |
| 9. | The Ghost of the Rescue |
49 |
| 10. | Passing through Lupton Channel |
67 |
| 11. | Wounded Ninoo towing his Carcass |
72 |
| 12. | Discovery of Frobisher Relics, August 11, 1861 |
77 |
| 13. | Suzhi's Boot Milling |
83 |
| 14. | Innuit Monument at Toongwine |
87 |
| 15. | Innuit Summer Village |
92 |
| 16. | View at Cape Stevens and Ward's Inlet |
96 |
| 17. | Tunukderlien, the Wife of Koojesse |
98 |
| 18. | Icebergs on the Rocks—Great Fall of Tide |
104 |
| 19. | Estuary of Sylvia Grinnell River, Frobisher Bay |
107 |
| 20. | Landing for Night's Encampment |
117 |
| 21. | Raising the American Flag |
119 |
| 22. | Silliman's Fossil Mount |
131 |
| 23. | A Desperate Pull |
136 |
| 24. | Frobisher's Gold Mine or Trench |
150 |
| 25. | Boat in a Storm |
154 |
| 26. | One of Frobisher's Gold Proofs |
161 |
| 27. | Frobisher Relics in Stockings |
162 |
| 28. | Oomien, or Women's Boat |
167 |
| 29. | Wooden Models of Frobisher's Anvil |
179 |
| 30. | Tallow Model of Frobisher's Anvil |
180 |
| 31. | Field Bay and Davis's Strait |
183 |
| 32. | Aurora seen at Field Bay, November 2, 1861 |
193 |
| 33. | Aurora and Meteor of October 13, 1860 |
195 |
| 34. | Playing the Keeloun |
198 |
| 35. | The Height of Hospitality |
205 |
| 36. | Seeking the Lost Village |
222 |
| 37. | "She moved not, she answered not" |
224 |
| 38. | Ebierbing awaiting a Seal's "Blow" |
228 |
| 39. | Civilization Sledge |
230 |
| 40. | Harpooning a Walrus |
235 |
| 41. | Hall on his Exploring Expedition |
239 |
| 42. | The Return from Newton's Fiord |
246 |
| 43. | We must Conquer or Starve |
248 |
| 44. | Arm of the Grinnell Glacier |
255 |
| 45. | Termination of Ward's Inlet |
264 |
| 46. | The Hungry Wolves |
269 |
| 47. | The Bear Hunt |
271 |
| 48. | Young Polar coming to the Point |
273 |
| 49. | Hall and his Expedition crossing Frobisher Bay |
277 |
| 50. | Walrus Skull and Tusks |
281 |
| 51. | Fac-simile of Sketch by Ookijoxy Ninoo |
285 |
| 52. | Monumental Island of Sir John Franklin |
290 |
| 53. | Gathering Frobisher Relics, July, 1862 |
292 |
| 54. | Frobisher Relics |
294 |
| 55. | Sledge-log, Line, and Reel |
300 |
| 56. | Escape over Drifting Pack—Last Sights |
304 |
| 57. | Farewell, Innuits |
307 |
| 58. | Sectional View of Seal Hole and Igloo |
326 |
| 59. | Esquimaux Watching at Seal Igloo |
327 |
| 60. | Bear killing Walrus |
329 |
| 61. | Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Kooperneung |
332 |
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